Taking off on a Gradient

Preamble
When it comes to reversing and taking off smoothly on an up-gradient, most drivers in our country no matter how ‘experienced’ are quite at sea. The reasons for this are not far to fathom as unlike in the West, there’re hardly any well-organised driver training programs in the country. In fact, things are so bad in some of the states that depending upon one’s clout, one can get a driving licence delivered to one’s door-step - w/o even having to fill-up a form!

The solution to such a problem that most people face can best be ‘demonstrated’ live by a ‘good’ driver, rather than instructions on a printed handout. None the less, let me try…

1. Using the Hand Brake to ‘assist’ is the right thing to do. In fact out there in the West, it’s mandatory to shift the Car to neutral and engage the Handbrake when coming to a stop, such as on traffic lights. The reason being - i) you don’t roll forward/backward unknowingly and ‘kiss’ the guy ahead/behind you, and ii) if some one hits you from behind, you don’t take-off and start a chain reaction.
2. Likewise when you have to stop on a slope, engage the HB fully first and then shift to neutral and take your foot off the clutch. This presumes that your hand brake is correctly adjusted and in good working order to hold the car there, without having to reinforce it by shifting into 1st or Rev. gear.
3. Now comes the tricky part - to take off smoothly on an up-gradient w/o the engine stalling or the Car rolling back. In fact it’s as easy as learning to ride a bicycle, once you get the ‘hang’ of it. Here’s what you do -
   • With the HB still fully engaged you start the car, get into the first gear, rev-up the engine somewhat above the usual and only then let the clutch go slowly - till the Car ‘attempts’ to move even with the HB engaged - which will be apparent by the engine tending to stall and thus demanding more accelerator.
   • NOW you ‘co-ordinate’ the clutch release + more accelerator AND ‘progressive’ handbrake release in such a manner that the Car smoothly moves fwd w/o stalling or rolling back. It’s a skill easily acquired by getting the ‘feel’ of things and not getting nervous about it.
4. Always remember that it’s you who’s driving the Car and not the other way around. It’ll do exactly what you command it to do - knowingly or unknowingly.

Driving with Hand Brake ON
This is another area that afflicts most drivers at some time or the other, tho’ a sensitive driver should be able to detect it sooner than later due to the ‘drag’ it’ll create. Notwithstanding, depending on the extent of its engagement and the speed/distance covered, the damage to the rear wheel/drums ‘Assembly’ - where alone the handbrakes work - can be from insignificant to considerable.

Such damage will arise due to very high localised temperatures within the drums as can be imagined - leading to:

1. Permanent Damage to the brake shoes - calling for their replacement.
2. Likewise to the Hydraulic Wheel Brake Cylinders and
3. The Wheel Bearings.

If one doesn’t feel any adverse effects soon after having driven some appreciable distance with the HB ‘on’, it’s recommended that one gets the rear drums opened at the next service and has all the above three properly inspected, tested and replaced as necessary.

If the (2) above appear undamaged, they must atleast be completely ‘bled’ to drive-out the boiled over/deteriorated Brake fluid that would be trapped in them and thus hampering their proper working.